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In our world of a million different skincare products that come with buzzy claims, it can feel downright impossible to know what your skin — and your skincare shelf — truly needs.
There’s the sheer abundance of products right now, which is great, but also beyond overwhelming. On top of that, no single routine or product is going to work for everyone, so finding the right products is often a game of trial and error….sometimes a very expensive game of trial and error.
Finding that line between an effective skincare routine and one that keeps your skin calm can be especially hard, especially for those of us with skin that can get a little sensitive. Do you stick with a basic routine that may not pack major benefits…or do you go for the more aggressive products and hope your skin adjusts?
As it turns out, there’s a third option, and it just might be the happy medium you've been seeking. Enter: Skin Cycling, the dermatologist-coined term for a skincare approach that may help you finally find that balance between a highly effective skincare routine and one that’s gentle enough for your skin.
What is skin cycling?
If you’ve never heard of skin cycling, it may be because it's a relatively new term coined by dermatologist Whitney Bowe, MD.
“Skin cycling takes a ‘less is more’ approach, being thoughtful and deliberate about your skincare routine. Rather than adding more products on top of one another, skin cycling encourages you to use products in a strategic way to complement one another,” says Dr. Bowe.
If you’re anything like me, you’ve seen influencers rave about a product and try it yourself, only to wind up with angry, irritated skin, one too many times. Skin cycling is positioned as the antidote to that.
“Particularly on social media, the answers to these questions are all over the place and we are seeing angry, irritated skin as a result,” says Dr. Bowe. “In contrast, skin cycling is an intuitive, flexible framework that serves as a blueprint to teach you to listen to your skin. The framework works as a guide which provides structure and organization, and dials down the guesswork and stress when it comes to optimizing your skincare routine.”
So, how does skin cycling work, exactly?
Essentially, instead of using the same skincare routine every night, you cycle through different products with a different focus each night. This helps people who may not tolerate harsher ingredients (for example, retinoids) minimize the irritation from these products by focusing on recovery on certain nights of the cycle.
For example, a cycle may look like this, according to Dr. Bowe: An exfoliation night (using a chemical exfoliating acid product), followed by a retinoid night, followed by two consecutive recovery nights. During these recovery nights, Dr. Bowe suggests holding off on the exfoliating acids and retinoids to give your skin a chance to recover from these harsher (yet effective!) products.
“On recovery nights, you want to focus on skin barrier health, so think hydration and moisture. On recovery nights, you want to avoid any irritating ingredients,” says Dr. Bowe.
Why does this work so well?
“Skin cycling helps by supporting the skin’s renewal process — first, through gentle exfoliation, and second, by speeding up the formation of healthier cells with the introduction of a retinoid and the focus on allowing your skin to recover,” says Dr. Bowe.
How can you find the right skin cycling approach?
“The beauty of skin cycling is that it can be personalized for different skin types,” says Dr. Bowe, who shared a guide for beginners to the approach on TikTok.
For example, if you’re experiencing sensitivity or irritation, a gentle skin cycling approach may be right for you — this can involve increasing recovery nights.
On the flip side, if your skin isn’t sensitive and you’re aiming for results, you can customize your approach accordingly.
“If you are seasoned and well-adjusted to your retinoid and want to dial up, you can adjust the schedule to include more active nights,” says Dr. Bowe. “Given that skin cycling can be easily modified and adjusted based on your own skin’s needs and your own experience, in real time, it can meet your skin where you are and be adjusted as needed.”
Is skin cycling a good option for everyone?
Here’s the thing about skincare: There’s no one-size-fits-all solution. So while skin cycling is a very customizable approach, it may not be the right approach for everyone.
Dr. Bowe outlines a few cases where skin cycling may not be optimal.
“You might be someone who has worked hard to get your skin adjusted to a stable and powerful retinoid. In this scenario, you might have built up slowly over time, maybe pushing through episodes of purging and/or flaking, and your skin has finally acclimated to the retinoid every night,” she says. “If that’s the case, and your skin is truly thriving (no irritation, no blotchy patches, no sensitivity) then skin cycling probably won’t offer you many benefits!”
With that being said, a lot of people don’t reach this stable point when using active products, which is why skin cycling can be a great option for people who want the benefits of more aggressive products yet experience sensitivity.
“Anyone with an active skin condition, like acne or rosacea, should consult their dermatologist to personalize their skin cycling routine,” adds Dr. Bowe. “If you are on a prescription medication for a skin condition, it goes without saying, but always consult your dermatologist before making any changes to their recommended regimen.”
What the experts say about skin cycling
Of course, Dr. Bowe gives skin cycling her stamp of approval — but she’s not the only dermatologist to do so (see here, here, and here).
“Skin cycling is one of the best trends from this year. It’s a great way to reduce irritation from skincare products,” says Aamna Adel, MD, a dermatologist who frequently shares skincare intel on social media.
Interested in trying this for yourself? Dr. Bowe breaks down a classic skin cycling routine here — but you may need to embrace a gentler option with additional recovery days (or, if this isn’t your first rodeo, an advanced skin cycling routine).
As always, even a dermatologist-approved routine isn’t necessarily right for everyone. But this approach is so customizable. As long as you don’t have a chronic skin condition or prescription that requires a doctor’s input, it could certainly be worth a try.
Zara Hanawalt is a freelance journalist and mom of twins. She's written for outlets like Vogue, Parents, MarieClaire, Elle, Cosmopolitan, Motherly, and many others. In her (admittedly limited!) free time, she enjoys cooking, reading, trying new restaurants, and traveling with her family.